It’s been decades since my last trip to Copenhagen and I decided it was time to return. I only had a couple of days to explore on my way to and from the Faroe Islands, but I think I made good use of my time and believe three days is a perfect amount of time to explore the city for the first time.
Copenhagen has an outstanding metro and the trip from the airport to the city center is easy. Follow the signs from customs, buy a ticket and it is a straight shot into town. Once in the city center, Copenhagen is extremely walkable. But watch out for the bikes which are everywhere.
Because our time in Copenhagen was split before and after our trip to the Faroe Islands, we stayed in two different hotels. I would only recommend one of them. Hotel Bethel was a small hotel in an amazing location on the canal. The staff was friendly and helpful. The rooms were small and no-nonsense.
I always recommend a Free Walking Tour for a first time visit to a new city. This will give you some of the history, culture, and perspective of the city. And because they are working for tips, I have always found them to be of outstanding quality.
Tivoli is a fun place to go with or without kids. This is one of my few memories from my trip here as a kid. My mom remembers it as in the country, but today the park is well within the downtown city limits and easy to reach on foot or metro. However, once inside the gates, it feels like you are a world away. We had a great dinner at Figaro. which was my mom’s favorite meal of the week.
Rosenburg Castle was an outstanding stop. The gardens are beautiful, and their timed tickets ensure it is never too crowded. However, tickets do get booked up a few days in advance so buy them on-line prior. The signage goes into the right amount of detail, and we were able to learn about 300-years of history in almost exactly an hour. This was both my mom and my favorite activity.
While touristy, visiting the colorful houses and canal of Nyhavn is a must do while in Copenhagen. Despite the prices, we enjoyed sitting at one of the cafes for a snack and a drink just to soak in the atmosphere. Along the canal you can also find Hans Christian Andersen’s house which is now a souvenir shop.
Similarly, no trip to Copenhagen is complete without a stop at the Little Mermaid. While many complain she is smaller than they imagined, I think she is just beautiful.
I really enjoyed the Museum of Danish Resistance. The museum highlights the specific circumstances and timeline of events in Denmark. The museum is interactive and follows the lives of several people in order to provide a holistic perspective.
The Botanical Gardens are extensive and elaborate. I am not big on gardens and was surprised that I spent a couple of hours there and still felt rushed. Of note, while the gardens are huge, due to construction, there was only one entrance open when I was there. It was a long walk around, so I recommend asking beforehand about which gates are open.
The National Museum was outstanding and I didn’t have nearly enough time there due to the extra time at the Botanical Gardens. It has a hefty entrance fee (but is free the last Wednesday of the month). Even so, I thought it was worth the price. You can learn a lot by what a National Museum says (and doesn’t say). And this was no exception. As an example, there was a large Viking exhibit, and I found a display on colonialism fascinating. Denmark was the 7th largest colonial empire which sent me down a rabbit hole to understand how the U.S Virgin Islands transferred from Denmark to the United States. On my next trip, this will be my first stop.
Freetown Christina was also on my list but very much a disappointment. I think everyone I saw was a tourist or catering to tourists. It is really just a preserved neighborhood with some graffiti. But if you have the time, take a stroll through it.
Copenhagen had wonderful food and we enjoyed meals at The Bazar and La Vecchia Signora.
Other Considerations:
While not outrageous, the city is more expensive than other destinations.
The city has an amazing food scene and café culture.
There are free public toilets.
You don’t need to exchange much (or maybe even any) money. Cards were used everywhere, and we often had a challenge getting change for even small bills of local currency.
Book and TV recommendations: Hans Christen Andersen is Denmark’s most famous author, and I really enjoyed the Danish TV series Borgen. Think of it as West Wing for Denmark.
All in all, I really enjoyed Copenhagen, and I would definitely be open to a return trip. But it is not at the top of my list of European cities.
Life Kinetic Travel Research 